For information on mowing your new lawn see FAQ Step 6 - Mowing Your New Lawn.
Spring and summer mowing will be required every 7-14 days for all grasses.
Cut only ⅓ of the leaf with any one mow to avoid scalping. If your lawn grows a little longer than preferred, trim your lawn down in a number of mows.
In the cooler months, warm season grasses such as Sir Walter Buffalo, Tiftuf Bermuda, Nullarbor Couch and Eureka Kikuyu, will require minimal mowing.
Sir Walter DNA Certified is best mown at a height of 40-50mm.
Nullarbor Couch and Eureka Kikuyu is best mown at a height of 20-30mm.
TifTuf Bermuda’s growth habits allow it to be mown at a range of heights, ideally between 10-35mm.
Sir Grange Zoysia is best maintained between 10-50mm and looks great at all levels.
Tips for mowing your lawn
Mowing lawn under trees
Keep grass slightly longer under shaded areas, such as trees. It is recommended not to mow more than ⅓ of the grass leaf.
Avoid overwatering in shaded areas, as the water does not evaporate quickly. Pruning bushes and trees regularly will allow as much sunlight as possible to reach your lawn.
For information on mowing your new lawn see FAQ Step 5 - Watering Your New Lawn.
Less frequent, longer watering is recommended for fully established lawns. This encourages a deeper and stronger root system which is better equipped to handle hot dry periods. Watering should take place either early morning or early evening to avoid water wastage from evaporation.
As a general guide, summer grasses (Sir Walter DNA Certified, Nullarbor Couch, TifTuf Bermuda and Eureka Kikuyu) will need 2-3 deep waters per week, and cool season grasses require 3 deep waterings per week, depending on weather conditions.
Keep an eye out for any sign of your lawn drying out - the leaves could be curling, thinning or changing colour. If this occurs, you will know you need to apply more water.
For information on mowing your new lawn see FAQ Step 7 - Fertilising Your New Lawn.
A good fertilising routine is vital to maintaining a healthy lawn all year round. We recommend all instant lawn varieties are fertilised in September, December, March and May. This will help to ensure healthy, dense dark-green coloured lawns which will give weeds a run for their money.
If the weather is hot, wait until it cools before you fertilise.
Fertilising rates and frequency may vary depending on weather conditions, soil and nutrient levels and plant stress levels.
A healthy, well looked after lawn is a beautiful thing, but like any plant, lawn can have its share of problems. There are many insects and pests that like to attack your lawn and can potentially cause significant harm. Knowing what lawn pests are out there in the lawn bug world will keep you ahead of the game and better equipped to deal with any unwanted grubs.
Root Feeding Grubs
Cockchafer, lawn beetle larvae or scarab beetle are all root feeding grubs. These insects are only in the young juvenile stage and feed on the lawn roots. White curl grub also feeds on lawn during the juvenile stage, however, it is sometimes incorrectly referred to as ‘witchetty grub’. These are entirely different insects.
Adult beetles are black and shiny, about 15mm long with brown serrated legs. The eggs are laid in spring and early summer, developing into larvae that then feed on the roots. The pupal stage causes no damage, but the emerging grubs in late spring/early summer do. The beetles are dormant or semi dormant in winter.
Surface Dwelling Grubs | Lawn Grub
‘Lawn grub’ is also a common term for surface dwelling caterpillars such as sod webworm, armyworm and cutworm that feed on the lawn leaves then become moths after their pupae stage.
The surface dwelling type of these lawn grubs all cause similar issues on your otherwise healthy lawn. The moths that lay the eggs, which then become lawn grubs, are fussy as they lay eggs on or around the best lawn in the street. Then the caterpillars eat the best lawn and leave the rest. If you see brown or straw-like patches in your lawn, or the leaves on your lawn’s grass runners are disappearing, you may have an infestation of lawn grubs. Small green droppings will also be present, which are basically your old lawn. Often you don’t see the caterpillars as they feed at night, however, you may notice white/grey moths flying over your lawn or nearby garden which is often an indication of a potential lawn grub problem.
How to Eliminate Lawn Grubs
To get rid of lawn grubs and other lawn pests, an application of a suitable insecticide is required. For surface dwelling types, an application late afternoon or early evenings gives best results when combined with a light watering in. In the case of the root eating types, as they dwell in the soil, the insecticide needs to be watered through the lawn and thatch layer to make contact with them. This will require a higher concentration of insecticide and a heavier application of water to get it to the target area.
We use cookies to analyze website traffic and optimize your website experience. By accepting our use of cookies, your data will be aggregated with all other user data.